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    Archived pages: 32 . Archive date: 2014-10.

  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: .. We are New Zealand's Only Turtle Specialists!.. (TRADE SUPPLY ONLY).. P.. O.. Box 7057, Napier, New Zealand.. WELCOME TO NEW ZEALAND'S ONLY TURTLE SPECIALIST.. HATCHLING TURTLES, TURTLE FOODS, UVA/UVB LIGHTING, HEATING, AND ACCESSORIES.. Not only does.. Hot House Turtles.. have New Zealands.. largest.. Turtle Breeding Facility producing a number of species of Turtles,.. but we.. ensure.. that your.. Pet Turtle.. has a complete and balanced.. diet,.. correct.. Calcium Vitamins,.. the best in.. UVB/UVA lighting,.. quality.. basking products,.. excellent.. reference books,.. plus all the.. essential accessories.. to thrive, not just survive.. Look for all.. products in your favourite Pet Shop.. Hot House Turtles.. also distributes a large  ...   sends it's products from Kaitaia in the far north, to Invercargill in the deep south.. Try our products today.. We know your Reptile will love you for it.. NEW HOT HOUSE TURTLES PRODUCT DUE IN PET STORES LATE AUGUST 2014:.. Turtle Basking Clamp Lamp with 60 watt Reptile Basking Bulb included!.. Click here to find your nearest Pet Shop.. TURTLES.. BEARDED DRAGONS.. WATER DRAGONS.. TORTOISES.. TURTLE HOUSING TANKS.. TURTLE HOUSING PONDS.. REPTILE LIGHTING.. REPTILE HEATING.. TURTLE FEEDING.. TURTLE HEALTH.. HHT FROZEN FOODS.. CALCIUM VITAMIN BITES.. HHT SUNNING ISLAND.. REPTILE BOOKS.. LUCKY REPTILE PRODUCTS.. REPTAPETS PRODUCTS.. FLUKER PRODUCTS.. TURTLE CONSERVATION.. CONTACT US.. Hot House Turtles Limited © 2014..

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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: STOCKIST OF HOT HOUSE TURTLES PRODUCTS.. SCROLL DOWN THE FOLLOWING REGIONS TO FIND A PET SHOP NEAREST YOU.. Northland.. Lemonwood Garden Werx, Kaitaia.. Whangarei Pet Aquarium, Whangarei.. Pet Essentials, Whangarei.. Kamo Pets, Whangarei.. Purr'fect Pets, Orewa.. Auckland Region.. Animates, Silverdale.. Hollywood Fish Farms, Albany.. Animates, Abany.. Animal Ark, Browns Bay.. Animates, Glenfield.. Four Seasons Pets, Takapuna.. Pet Stop, New Market.. Lifestyle Animal Pet Supplies Ltd, Swanson.. Animates, Westgate.. The Bird Barn Watergardens, Henderson.. Animates, Henderson.. Animates, St Lukes.. Pet Shop Boyz, Glen Eden.. Pet Stop, Mt Eden.. Hollywood Fish Farms, Mt Roskill.. Animates, Mt Eden.. Animates, Grey Lynn.. Pet Stop, Onehunga.. Four Seasons Pets, Glen Innes.. Animates, Mt Wellington.. Animates, Sylvia Park.. Paws Whiskers, Howick.. Pet Stop, Botany Downs.. Animates, Botany Downs.. Happy Pet, Manukau Mall.. Animates, Manukau City.. Animates, Takanini.. Pets Alive, Pukekohe.. The Animal Shack, Pukekohe.. Waikato / Bay of Plenty.. Pure Aquatics, Hamilton.. Animates, Bridge Street, Hamilton.. Animates, Te Rapa.. Pet World, Hamilton.. CareVets, Hamilton.. Pet Essentials, Hamilton.. Reptilez Pet Supplies, Te Awamutu.. Hauraki Vets Pets, Thames.. Pet Essentials, Tauranga.. Animates, Tauranga..  ...   Plymouth.. Wet Pets Country Pets, Palmerston North.. Animates, Palmerston North.. Pet Essentials, Palmerston North.. Tararua Veterinary Services, Pahiatua.. Masterton Seed Pets, Masterton.. Pet Essentials Wanganui.. Animates, New Plymouth.. Lifestyle Pets, New Plymouth.. Pet Essentials, New Plymouth.. B-Zone Aquarium Supplies, Waitara.. Wellington Region.. Pet Essentials, Porirua.. The Pet Centre, Porirua.. CareVets 'N' Pets, Porirua.. CareVets'N' Pets, Johnsonville.. Animates, Kaiwharawhara.. Animates, Lower Hutt.. The Pet Centre, Lower Hutt.. Em's Creature Comforts, Stokes Valley.. Paws Claws Pet Supplies, Upper Hutt.. The Pet Centre, Upper Hutt.. Nelson / Marborough / West Coast.. Pet Fever, Nelson.. Animates, Nelson.. Roselands Pets Plants, Blenheim.. Greymouth Nurseries, Greymouth.. Canterbury.. Animates Tower Junction, Christchurch.. Animates, Papanui.. Pet Central, Moorhouse, Christchurch.. Pet Central, Hornby, Christchurch.. Pet Garden Supplies, Christchurch.. Cyber Pets, Shirley, Christchurch.. Bishopdale Pets, Christchurch.. Redwood Aquatics, Harewood.. Elle's Pet Centre, Kaiapoi, The Feed Shack Brew Shack, Rangiora.. Ashburton Pets'N Vets, Ashburton.. PetZone, Ashburton.. Timaru / Oamaru / Otago.. How's This For Pets, Timaru.. For Pets Sake, Timaru.. Pet Planet, Dunedin.. The Pet Warehouse, Dunedin.. Animal Attraction, Dunedin.. Southland.. East Road Pets, Invercargill.. Back.. HOME..

    Original link path: /petshop_list.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: FRESHWATER TURTLES.. There are.. no.. freshwater.. Turtles native to New Zealand.. however there are many varieties kept as pets here.. Following is a.. list of Turtles.. that.. I have either kept.. , or.. have seen in private collections.. throughout New Zealand.. Click.. on the names in.. red.. to show further information.. on these species.. Red-eared Turtle.. Trachemys scripta elegans.. Cumberland's Turtle.. Trachemys scripta troostii.. Eastern Snake-neck Turtle.. Chelodina longicollis.. Oblong Turtle.. Macrodiremys oblonga.. Broad Shelled Turtle.. Macrochelodina expansa.. Macquarie River Turtle..  ...   Cyclemys dentata.. Asian Spiny Turtle.. Heosemys spinosa.. Eastern River Cooter.. Pseudemys concinna concinna.. Eastern Painted Turtle.. Chrysemys picta picta.. Reeve's Turtle.. Mauremys reevesii.. Diamond Back Terrapin.. Malaclemys terrapin.. Soft-shelled Turtles.. Trionyx sp.. There are also a lot of other species of Turtles that were seen here in New Zealand in the Pet Trade back in the 1960's - 70's that are no doubt still alive today in peoples homes.. Turtles, if well cared for, can live for 50 years or more!..

    Original link path: /turtles.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: BEARDED DRAGON.. S.. SPECIES.. POGONA.. There are two types of.. Bearded Dragon.. kept in New Zealand.. One is the.. Inland Bearded Dragon (.. Pogona vitticeps.. ),.. and the other is the.. Eastern Bearded Dragon (.. Pogona barbata.. ).. The.. Inland Bearded Dragon.. is from inland west New South Wales and Queensland, hates humidity, and loves a very hot and dry enclosure.. If the humidity is to high it can cause respiratory infections and if not treated quickly, death can occur.. The.. Eastern Bearded Dragon.. is from Eastern Coast of Australia and ranges from the Cooktown area of far north Queensland to south eastern South-Australia and is more tolerant of humidity and cooler temperatures.. (Above an Inland Bearded Dragon female enjoys  ...   hatchlings in a tank 100 x 40 x 40cm.. If I was to raise up to four hatchlings then I would recommend using a tank 120 x 45 x 45cm.. A small water dish for drinking from, bark on the floor, plenty of logs to climb and hide under, a flat rock under a heat lamp, and a UVA / UVB Reptile light above was pretty much the tank set up.. It is worth mentioning here that the UVA / UVB Reptile light must be no more than 300mm away from the.. Dragons.. basking spot as the effectiveness of the light is greatly reduced the further away it is.. See.. Reptile Lighting.. page for the correct lighting for your Reptile..

    Original link path: /bearded_dragon.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: EASTERN WATER DRAGON.. PHYSIGNATHUS LESUEURII LESUEURII.. Eastern Water Dragon (.. Physignathus lesueurii lesueurii.. ).. is from Eastern Coast of Australia.. They are tolerant of humidity and cooler temperatures.. Eastern Water Dragon.. is hardy, not much of a fussy eater, and loves bathing in water.. They must be provided a good sized water pool or pond that they can completely submerge themselves in.. They also defecate in the water and very little out of the water.. Therefore the water must be changed regularly.. (The above pics show the obvious male / female difference in appearance.. The top picture being the Female, and the lower being the Male.. These are both five years of age.. ).. Eastern Water Dragons.. are a pet for anyone who wants something different and large!! Males are said to reach 1 metre in length, and females up to 80cm in length.. They can live in captivity for approx.. 25 years if they aren't forced in growth during their first two years.. If they are forced then their life expectancy is halved.. 70% of their length is tail, which is slightly flattened  ...   raised two hatchlings in a tank 120 x 40 x 40cm.. If I was to raise up to four hatchlings then I would recommend using a tank 150 x 50 x 50cm.. A large water tray, bark on the floor, a flat rock under a heat lamp, and a UVB Reptile light above was pretty much the tank set up.. It is worth mentioning here that the UVB Reptile light must be no more than 300mm away from the.. See.. We found that the tank was a perfect sized home until they were about 15 months of age.. When they got to this age they were growing quite fast and were continuously trying to climb the walls to escape.. This is when we moved them to their outside enclosure.. The outside enclosure is much like a small bird aviary.. The strong 1/4 inch mesh is great for them to be able to climb to the best sunning position.. Plenty of logs and plants for them to climb also make the enclosure look more natural.. (The same pair as above basking together in the sun..

    Original link path: /waterdragons.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: Just like the Freshwater Turtles, there.. are.. no Tortoises native to New Zealand,.. but there are a few species kept as pets here.. list of Tortoises.. that I.. have personally seen.. in private hands in.. New Zealand.. (Whether all of these species are still alive and kicking, I wouldn't be 100% sure of today.. ) There are also a lot of other species of.. Tortoises.. that are known to have been kept as pets  ...   definitely a long term pet!.. Box Turtles.. Terrapene spp.. Hermann's Tortoise.. Testudo hermanni.. Spur Thighed Tortoise.. Testudo graeca.. Malayan Box Turtle.. Cuora amboinensis.. Yellow Headed Tortoise.. Indotestudo elongata.. Gopher Tortoise.. Gopherus spp.. Leopard Tortoise.. Geochelone pardalis.. The top three species on the above list have been successfully bred in recent years here in New Zealand by private breeders.. They are however only bred in relatively small numbers and are therefore extremely hard to come by..

    Original link path: /tortoises.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: INDOOR TURTLE ENVIRONMENT.. HATCHLING TANK.. Hatchlings can be reared in a tank of approximately 60x30x30cm and for a pair this will probably only be adequate for about six months.. Do not keep hatchlings in a fish bowl.. it is not adequate.. ADULT TANK.. A pair of 15-25cm turtles need a minimum 120x60x60cm tank.. WATER DEPTH.. There is no maximum water depth but the minimum is twice the turtle shell length, however, do not have the water level or floating island too close to the top of the tank as turtles are good climbers and your pet could climb out.. A drop of 50cm or more on to a hard surface could kill your turtle.. WATER TEMPERATURE.. I recommended keeping the water temperature of your tanks at 26.. o.. C (28.. C for Australian Painted Turtles) to avoid your Turtle refusing to eat.. Once water temperatures drop below 15.. C Turtles will stop eating and can stave to death as these temperatures are too high for successful hibernating, and too low for digesting food successfully.. Water temperature can be maintained by using a standard aquarium heater (inserted inside a heater guard.. These prevent your Turtle from possibly breaking the heater).. Your  ...   will prevent it from getting bacterial shell infections, or other possible health problems.. UVB/UVA LIGHTING.. It is essential to have a UVB/UVA reptile light above the Turtles.. These bulbs replicate the light given by the sun.. Your Pet Shop will be able to assist you with the correct one for your tank size.. (Also see.. WATER QUALITY.. It is not essential to age your water but a 50% water change every day or two will assist in maintaining the water quality.. Your turtle tank should be thoroughly cleaned every week.. Poor water quality leads to disease.. Be aware that every gram of solid food results in 4 to 5 grams of urine being excreted.. WATER FILTRATION.. Frequent water changes can be avoided with the use of a quality power filter but regular cleaning will still need to be maintained.. The biggest cause of death with pet Turtles is ammonia poisoning.. Snake-neck Turtles and Australian Painted Turtles are the most susceptible species to ammonia poisoning!.. Your tank water can look clean but the ammonia levels due to their urine can be off the scale and Turtles once poisoned can die within hours.. Click here for Pond Ideas for New Zealand Conditions..

    Original link path: /turtle_housing_indoor.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: OUTDOOR TURTLE PONDS.. POND MINIMUM SIZE AND DEPTH.. Ponds must be deep enough for your Turtle to swim freely, and not able to reach the surface by standing on the bottom.. Preformed fiberglass or plastic ponds are ideal.. These are readily available from specialist Pet Shops, Garden Centres or Landscape Supply outlets.. Constructing a pond using heavy duty pond liners will also work.. Ideal depth would be 35 - 45cm.. Concrete ponds, if constructed, must be as smooth as possible otherwise the underneath shell of the Turtle will get abrasions from dragging on the pond surface.. This could in turn lead to infection resulting in shell rot.. Personally I do not recommend using concrete.. A ramp must be constructed to enable your Turtle to leave the water to sun.. Do not keep Turtles in a pond that is too shallow, they will heat up and cool down to frequently!!!.. POND POSITION.. Try and position your pond facing north.. This will attract the most sun.. Provide an area for sunning, and provide some shade for your Turtle to move out of the sun when it gets to hot.. FENCING YOUR POND.. Your pond must be fenced to prevent your Turtle from wandering off.. Turtles are good climbers, so make sure that your fence is at least 40cm high.. Don't have your fence made of shade cloth or wire mesh.. Don't have rocks or shrubs close to your fence.. Your Turtle will simply climb these and go walk about.. If your Turtle can see through it's fence then it will spend most of the time trying to get through or over.. We have used half-rounds, or plywood.. Both of these must be H3 treated to prevent rotting over time.. Also by  ...   autumn.. FEEDING, WHEN TO STOP AND START.. Feed your Turtle once daily.. Stop feeding your Turtle mid April and resume feeding mid to late October.. As the weather cools into autumn you will notice your Turtle will look for less food.. They must empty their stomach contents before they hibernate.. If they don't, any undigested food will rot inside them and they will die.. Remember, your Turtle has a built in clock for this, and may even refuse food before mid April.. Don't panic about this, just keep an eye on your Turtle, and if you are concerned for it's health consult a Vet for a check up, or set up it's indoor home for the winter months and try again next summer.. I recommend that the water undergo a complete change every week or two depending on the amount and size of Turtles, size of pond, and whether or not you have been heavy handed with the feeding.. There is no need to have a filtration system in your pond.. This decision is entirely over to you.. HEATING.. There is no need to heat the water.. HIBERNATION.. Turtles hibernate in the water.. They will move around a little and may even come out to sun on sunny winter days.. This is normal behavior.. If your Turtle is not returning to the water often, or not at all, especially when the sun goes down, then it is advised to re-setup the indoor heated tank for the winter and try again next Summer.. Not all Turtles adjust the first time round.. You can not successfully hibernate Turtles inside in their tank.. It is simply not cold enough, and your Turtle will die from attempting this!!!.. Back to Indoor Turtle Environment..

    Original link path: /turtle_housing_outdoors.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: ARTIFICIAL LIGHT.. When keeping Reptiles in captive environments we need to provide artificial sunlight.. Not any old light will do!!!.. There are specific Reptile lights sold by Pet Shops.. Some are different shapes and come in many different sizes.. Every keeper needs to be made aware of what light is right for their Reptiles well being.. So here we go, and I hope that what you are about to learn is not too confusing.. UVA / UVB.. What does all this mean??? The.. UV.. spectrum is broken up into three parts:.. UVA, UVB.. and.. UVC.. , all of which are present in natural sunlight.. UVA.. UVB.. are essential for Reptiles wellbeing.. is the visible light range, and is responsible for normal behaviours such as feeding and activity.. UVB.. is a non-visible wavelength, and allows the synthesis of vitamin D3, which helps process calcium and.. prevent Soft Shell in Turtles and Metabolic Bone Disease in Lizards.. (Metabolic Bone Disease is particularly common with Bearded Dragons and Eastern Water Dragons that have incorrect lighting).. WHICH IS THE RIGHT LIGHT FOR MY REPTILE???.. Sun-worshippers.. Some Reptiles are described as.. Sun-worshippers , including Bearded Dragons, Eastern Water Dragons and many species of Turtles especially Red-eared Turtles.. In the wild these Reptiles spend many hours a day exposed to the sun and.. high UVB.. levels.. They require high levels of UVB!!.. If you keep any Reptile in captivity in New Zealand, you are bound to have a.. Sun-worshipper.. , therefore it is imperative that you purchase a Reptile specific light with the.. highest possible UVB.. output.. The.. Florescent Tubes.. that you will find for sale in New Zealand currently range from.. 2.. 0, 5.. 0, 8.. 0, and 10.. 0.. These numbers represent the percentage of.. wavelengths that they give.. The higher the number the higher the percentage of.. , the better that light is for the wellbeing of your Reptile.. We at..  ...   benefit from the.. given off.. There are two types of Reptile bulbs available,.. UVA / UVB Fluorescent Tubes.. In order for your Reptile to gain the highest possible.. UVB%.. from your bulb, the distance between your Reptiles sunning area and the.. UV bulb must not exceed 300mm (unless you are using a Lucky Reptile Compact in which case you can have your basking distance up to 25cm).. The further your Reptile is from the light, the.. light levels are greatly reduced.. Also note.. that the.. Florescent Tubes and Compact Bulbs need to be changed as per the manufacturers recommendations.. Usually.. annually, as the UVA / UVB output is reduced.. over time.. Even though the light still goes,.. they are of no benefit.. to your Reptile at all!!.. (In the enclosure above I have a double florescent tube holder.. I use JBL UVB tubes and as per manufacturers recommendation on the packaging I use a JBL Reptil Sun (8% UVB/36% UVA) along side a JBL Jungle (2%UVB).. This gives my Bearded Dragons the correct amount of UV and visible light in such a large enclosure which measures 900W x 900L x 1200H.. The distance from the log to the tubes is 300mm (again manufacturers recommendation on the packaging).. There are two Dome Fittings down low suspended over top of a flat rock.. One contains a 60watt heat bulb, and the other a Lucky Reptile UVB Compact bulb.. This provides the Bearded Dragons sufficient UVB when warming themselves on the floor of the enclosure.. There is also a 150 watt ceramic heat emitter mounted in the top of the enclosure beside the UVB tubes.. AMOUNT OF LIGHT.. 10 hours of artificial light is the minimum per day.. An easier way to make sure that your Reptile is getting enough UVB is to turn the lights on when you get up in the morning and off when you go to bed..

    Original link path: /reptile_lighting.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: (AIMED MORE TOWARDS HEATING FOR AUSTRALIAN DRAGONS).. Dragons.. require a.. basking spot.. in their terrarium which will provide a.. temperature of 35.. C 40.. C.. This is to be set up down one end of you enclosure.. This way your.. Dragon can thermo-regulate.. Thermo-regulation is what all Reptiles do.. As they are cold blooded they must heat themselves up (outside this is achieved in the warmth of the sun) so they can be.. active enough to feed, digest food and go about their daily activities.. Once up to temperature they can move about their enclosure.. As they cool down they must return to their basking spot to heat up again.. If their entire enclosure was 40.. 0.. C they would have nowhere to cool down and would over heat and eventually die.. There are a few different ways of.. Heating.. enclosures or part of an enclosure to raise the temperature of your.. Reptile.. artificially.. I have listed only two methods as this is what I have had experience with and both are very easy to set up and use.. Ceramic Heat Lamps.. :.. These are a.. ceramic heat element.. designed not to give off light but plenty of heat, and also come in a range of wattage's.. It is essential that these.. be used with  ...   Dragons.. 30.. C for Water Dragons.. Infrared Heat Bulbs:.. These are a specific red coloured Infrared Reptile bulb that reflects a lot of heat and come in a variety of wattage's.. They are.. best used without a shade.. (this will prolong the life of the bulb).. These bulbs.. must be mounted inside a mesh protection cage.. must be used with ceramic fittings.. (In the above enclosure I have a 150 watt Ceramic Heat Emitter mounted inside a Safety Cage mounted at the top of the enclosure along side the UVB tube.. There is also a 60 watt UVA heat lamp mounted down low inside a small Dome fitting.. This keeps this large enclosure (900Wx900Lx1200H) with two basking points, yet providing plenty of cooler spots for the Bearded Dragons to thermo-regulate.. Heat Rocks, Heat Pads, and Under Substrate Heating Cables:.. I have read conflicting issues regarding.. Heating Rocks, Heat Pads and Heating Cables.. , and have avoided using these as I also believe that.. Reptiles.. are designed to absorb the heat directly on their backs, not their bellies.. I have never seen a.. of any description lying on its back, feet in the air, soaking up the rays!!! I have also heard of.. being.. cooked from the inside out.. by these forms of heating when thermostats malfunction..

    Original link path: /reptile_heating.htm
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  • Title: Hot House Turtles
    Descriptive info: STAPLE DIET.. Turtles reared on.. frozen Turtle Food will thrive as the fish based diet contains necessary calcium and other minerals and vitamins to ensure turtle shell quality and general well being.. LIVE FOOD.. Water snails and garden snails, crushed, and fed shell and all make a nice delicacy but ensure that the snails have not been poisoned.. Turtles also love worms, water boatman, mosquito larvae and woodlice.. VEGETATION.. Turtles become more omnivorous as they age and they love puha, lettuce, oxygen weed and other aquatic plants.. FEEDING TIMES.. Hatchlings should be fed twice per day and adult turtles once per day.. All turtles do best if they are fed at the same time each day.. FEEDING HINTS.. You  ...   area rather than in your tank.. Ensure that the water temperature in this area is similar to your turtle tank.. You can also feed Turtles with.. Hot House Turtles Rubber Tipped Reptile Feeding Tweezers.. These are great when you have more than one Turtle, so you're able to gauge if each Turtle is getting its own share.. I find these.. brilliant when feeding frozen food, and saves nips to your fingers.. especially if you regularly hand feed your Turtles,.. and with them being Rubber Tipped, you know you're not going to injure your Turtles mouth parts or face.. (Available in all good Pet Shops.. In general, turtles will eat the equivalent of twice the size of their head each day..

    Original link path: /turtle_feeding.htm
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    Archived pages: 32